Here are additional hints that I hope you will find helpful:

When I am placing individual crystals and metals, I place the flat pieces first. The iron will have a better surface to surface contact. (in order-round metal pieces, beveled metal pieces, small crystals, large crystals, etc.) Steam irons will work perfectly fine as long as they don't have excessive steam holes. Iron with it dry and just be conscious of where the steam holes are. If you are ever in a thrift store, check for the old irons without the steam holes. They also have a lot of good weight.

You also need tweezers to place individual pieces. Your fingers are too big and will knock pieces out of the way. I also place only as many pieces as I think will fit under the surface of the iron. That way, those pieces will be secure while I work on the rest of the design.

The most easily scorched items are as follows: woven cotton shirts (set the iron only for a short time on the Non-stick pressing sheet and see how the fabric reacts), poly-cotton sweatshirts, cotton knit, and even denim shirts and outfits. The Non-stick pressing sheet will protect your shirt best of anything, but it still isn't foolproof. Also try to test a spot first.

When you use an iron-on design, put your iron on the wool setting. Place the Non-stick pressing sheet over the design, and make sure your iron is on the Non-stick pressing sheet at all times. When the plastic cools, peel it off. I suggest that you also iron the design from the back side of your shirt. It never hurts to be cautious.

You can find designs anywhere! You can turn line drawings into dots, just space them evenly. Colorpoint books and Bedazzler books will give you great ideas. This way you can use different size metal pieces and crystals where you want them. If designs look to complicated, just use fewer of the dots. Sometimes just the outline, with a few sections filled in.

A good use for the donuts that are listed under the metals is that you ran place the 10ss crystals in the center of them. This could create a nice necklace effect, or any other use that you can find for them.

Denim Seams: When you are ironing on the 4mm metal dots on to seam lines, keep in mind that you are ironing on to an uneven surface, so you have to compensate for that. Place the row of dots in to place, and then concentrate on about 3 dots at a time. Use some pressure. Again, check to see that they are secure when you are all finished.

When you iron on to pockets, keep in mind that you have a hem and seam lines on all four sides. Place your design down and iron for the 25-45 seconds. Then take your iron and press small sections of the design to make sure that all the pieces are secure. Let it cool, and then peel away the plastic. Examine the design carefully for any loose pieces.

Sweaters or fabrics with a nap (including the popular velour): Cut away all the excess plastic around the design. You may not want to lay your iron down flat, so iron the design on in sections using just the front half of the iron.

Some customers have told me that after ironing on about 3 or 4 designs, that with the next design the plastic crinkles up or melts onto the shirt. The iron has increased in temperature. The plastic Is not defective. If your iron is too hot, it will melt the plastic. After a couple of uses, test your iron on a corner of the design where there is only plastic. That is the best I can tell you. We have noticed this happen with our heat press. But on ft, we have a temperature gauge. We are not so lucky to have that on our household irons.

Prewashing your fabrics: The only fabrics that I prewash are denim, canvas, and any fabrics that I think have a lot of sizing in them. (May include some cotton fabrics). We do not prewash t-shirts, or sweatshirts. That way if you make this as a gift, it can look nice and new when you give it. Always use your own discretion.